Christian Jensen is not interested in innovation. In a gin market that frequently prioritises novelty — exotic botanicals, unusual production methods, eye-catching bottles — Jensen has spent his career looking backwards, attempting to recreate the gins that London was drinking in the 18th and 19th centuries. His Old Tom is the culmination of that obsession, and it's magnificent.
The story goes that Jensen discovered a recipe from the 1840s in a dusty archive and spent years adapting it for modern production at the Thames Distillers in London. Whether the provenance is entirely accurate is almost beside the point — what matters is that the resulting gin tastes authentically, convincingly historical.
Understanding Old Tom
For those unfamiliar with the style, Old Tom is the missing link between genever (the Dutch juniper spirit from which gin evolved) and modern London Dry. Sweeter than London Dry but drier than genever, Old Tom was the dominant gin style in London from the early 18th century through to the late Victorian period. It fell out of fashion in the early 20th century and was virtually extinct by the 1960s — a victim of changing tastes and the rise of vodka.
The current Old Tom revival owes much to the craft cocktail movement, which rediscovered that many classic cocktail recipes — the Tom Collins, the Martinez, the Ramos Gin Fizz — were originally designed for Old Tom's sweeter, softer style.
On the Nose
Jensen's Old Tom smells like a gin from another era — and I mean that as the highest compliment. There's a malty, almost grainy sweetness on first nosing, reminiscent of barley sugar. Juniper is present but softer and more rounded than in a London Dry, with a herbal, almost medicinal quality that suggests the apothecary origins of early gin. Liquorice and a hint of citrus peel add depth.
On the Palate
This is a remarkably different experience from modern gin. The entry is soft and sweet — not cloying, but noticeably sweeter than any London Dry. That malty character carries through, providing a base note that grounds the other flavours. Juniper emerges mid-palate, rich and resinous but never sharp, accompanied by a gentle herbal complexity — angelica, liquorice, and something almost tea-like that I can't quite identify.
The sweetness is the key differentiator. Where London Dry is all angles and precision, Jensen's Old Tom is curves and warmth. It's a gin that invites you to relax rather than demanding your attention. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied with a slightly oily texture that enhances the impression of sweetness.
The Finish
Medium length, soft, with a malty sweetness that fades slowly into dry juniper. There's a pleasant bitterness right at the end — perhaps from the liquorice root — that prevents the finish from becoming too sweet and provides a counterbalance that makes you reach for another sip.
Cocktail Performance
In a Tom Collins, Jensen's Old Tom is revelatory. The gin's inherent sweetness means you need less sugar syrup, producing a drink that's more balanced and more gin-forward than a version made with London Dry. The malty character adds a depth that modern gins simply can't replicate.
In a Martinez — the Old Tom cocktail — it's extraordinary. Sweet vermouth, maraschino liqueur, orange bitters, and Jensen's Old Tom create a cocktail of remarkable complexity and historical accuracy. If you're going to make one drink with this gin, make it a Martinez.
The Assessment
Jensen's Old Tom is not for everyone. If you prefer the sharp, citrus-bright character of modern London Dry, this softer, sweeter style may not be to your taste. But for those interested in gin history — or simply looking for something genuinely different — this is an essential bottle.
It's a gin that expands your understanding of what the spirit can be, and a reminder that the London Dry style we think of as "classic" is actually a relatively modern invention. The real classic gin tasted something like this.
