Perry's Tot takes its name from Commodore Matthew Calbraith Perry, who in 1855 oversaw the final distribution of the daily spirit ration to American naval personnel — the "tot" that had sustained sailors through decades of service. It is a fitting namesake for a gin that does not believe in half measures.
Produced by the New York Distilling Company in Brooklyn — the same outfit behind Dorothy Parker gin — Perry's Tot is a Navy Strength expression bottled at a commanding 57% ABV. In the Royal Navy tradition, this is the proof at which gin could be spilled on gunpowder without preventing it from igniting — a rather dramatic quality control measure that speaks to an era when practical necessity shaped the character of spirits.
On the Nose
The nose is immediately assertive. Juniper dominates with an almost masculine intensity — deep, resinous, and unapologetically piney. Behind this wall of juniper sits a citrus note that leans towards grapefruit rather than lemon, along with a spicy warmth from what I detect as cardamom and a touch of cinnamon. There is also a subtle honeyed sweetness that rounds the edges of what might otherwise be an austere aromatic profile. At 57%, one might expect alcoholic heat, but the nose is remarkably well-integrated.
The Palate
On the palate, Perry's Tot is a powerhouse — but a disciplined one. The juniper arrives with authority, carrying a depth and complexity that lower-strength gins simply cannot achieve. The mouthfeel is rich and oily, coating the tongue with botanical intensity. Citrus provides brightness without frivolity, and there is a distinctive wild honey note on the mid-palate that gives the gin an almost luxurious quality. The spice builds gradually — warm rather than hot — and the overall impression is of a gin that knows exactly what it is and makes no concession to timidity.
The Finish
The finish is long and warming, as one would expect at this strength. Juniper persists, joined by a pleasant bitterness and a final flash of citrus zest. There is a gentle heat, but it is the warmth of a well-tended fire rather than an unwelcome burn. It invites the next sip rather than deterring it.
In Cocktails
This is where Perry's Tot truly excels. In a Negroni, it transforms the drink — the gin's intensity stands up to Campari's bitterness and sweet vermouth's richness in a way that standard-strength gins cannot. The result is a Negroni of genuine power and depth. In a Navy Gimlet (equal parts gin and Rose's lime cordial, if we're being historically accurate, or fresh lime and sugar if we're being sensible), the 57% ABV ensures the gin's character survives the sweetness of the lime.
Even in a gin and tonic, Perry's Tot performs admirably. Use a generous measure — the higher ABV means you can use a touch more tonic without losing the gin — and garnish with grapefruit peel to complement those citrus notes.
Perry's Tot is not an everyday gin. It is a gin for occasions that demand boldness — for cocktails that need backbone, for evenings that call for something more substantial than the usual. At its price point, it represents excellent value for what is a genuinely accomplished Navy Strength expression. Commodore Perry, I suspect, would have been proud to pour it.
