The story of Portobello Road gin begins, as so many good gin stories do, in a pub. The Portobello Star on Portobello Road in Notting Hill housed the Ginstitute — a small museum and tasting room where founders Ged Feltham and Jake Burger first distilled their house gin. The number 171 refers to the pub's street address, and the gin that bears it has since become one of the most respected London Drys produced by the new generation of craft distillers.
Production has since moved to the purpose-built Portobello Road Distillery in nearby North Kensington, but the recipe remains unchanged. Nine botanicals, a pot still, and an approach that prioritises balance over novelty. In a market saturated with gins that compete for attention through exotic ingredients and elaborate stories, Portobello Road's commitment to classical virtues feels almost radical.
On the Nose
The nose is clean and confidently juniper-led. This is juniper at its most articulate — bright, piney, and aromatic without the damp, musty quality that lesser gins sometimes present. Coriander provides a warm, slightly nutty undercurrent, while the citrus is restrained and elegant: lemon zest rather than lemon juice. There is an underlying pepperiness that I attribute to the cassia bark, and a floral hint from the orris root that emerges as the gin warms slightly in the glass.
The Palate
The palate confirms the nose's promise of classical precision. Juniper leads with authority but never bullies — it creates a framework within which the other botanicals express themselves clearly. The coriander delivers a gentle spice that builds through the mid-palate, while the citrus provides lift and freshness. The liquorice root adds a subtle sweetness that prevents the gin from feeling austere, and the angelica contributes a dry, earthy quality that anchors the lighter botanical notes.
At 42% ABV, the mouthfeel is medium-bodied — substantial enough to carry the botanicals with conviction but not so heavy as to feel cumbersome. The distillation is clearly precise; there are no rough edges, no off-notes, no botanical that oversteps its mark.
The Finish
The finish is medium-long and satisfying. Juniper persists, as it should in a good London Dry, accompanied by a gentle warmth from the cassia and a final whisper of citrus. The overall impression is one of completeness — nothing is missing, nothing is excess.
Versatility
Portobello Road No. 171 is that rare gin which performs equally well in every application. In a gin and tonic with Indian tonic and a lemon twist, it is crisp and refreshing. In a Martini, it is elegant and precise. In a Negroni, it has sufficient backbone to hold its own against Campari. This versatility is the hallmark of a well-constructed London Dry — a gin that serves the drink rather than demanding the drink serve it.
In the canon of modern London Dry gins, Portobello Road No. 171 deserves to be mentioned alongside Sipsmith, Beefeater 24, and the very best expressions of the style. It is a gin that makes no fuss, takes no shortcuts, and delivers consistent excellence. That may not be exciting in the way that a gin made with foraged seaweed and volcanic rock is exciting, but it is, in its own quiet way, rather magnificent.
